Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Rouge 2013
To paraphrase René Maritte, "Ceci n'est pas un Bourgone!" Of course we're not playing any surrealist games here. This wine truly has no Bourgogne fruit in it, only Villages and 1er Cru and reflects Leroux's desire to create some kind of uber Bourgogne.
The 2012 has top growth Villages written all over it; think of a hypothetical cross between Volnay and Santenay to grasp the style, with both the perfume and sweet fruit as well as some darker notes and enough tannins to certainly make this age worthy over the short term (at least).
No new oak here, the wine is a blend of Santenay Villages and 1er Cru la Comme (50%), Beaune and (new in 2012) Ladoix-Serrigny Villages. Leroux declassifies these wines because a) otherwise he would have no Bourgogne rouge to sell and b) he hasn't found any Bourgogne AOC source that can deliver the kind of quality he is looking for.
The origin of the wines and the startling quality make it an absolute steal.
This is a bright, pure and seductively juicy Côte de Beaune rouge with just enough structure keeping everything fresh and food friendly. Simply too good for Bourgogne!
"There were some terrific top-end wines at a recent Leroux tasting - 1er Cru Volnay, Grand Cru Corton - but the one I wanted to keep drinking because it was so vibrant and utterly delicious was this relatively humble Bourgogne rouge." Gourmet Traveller, Top Drinks of October 2015